Posts tagged ‘cooking’

February 4, 2012

Kitchen Advice Odds and Ends

Over the last few weeks, my brain has been filling up with little tips and tricks for my customers. Here are many of them, which inevitably will be followed by many more coming to mind right after I post this:

*Wash your vegetables and fruits. No exceptions, it doesn’t matter if you have bagged salad greens that have been rinsed in ammonia 18 times. Wash. Everything.

*Vegetables get droopy if you leave them in the fridge, sometimes after just a couple of days. If that’s the case, a bowl of ice water will almost always perk them back up. It’ll work even faster if you chop them up first. I’ve done this myself with kale, chard and carrots. It actually works.

*You can sub in pretty much any grain or bean for another. It maybe won’t turn out quite the same, but your kitchen will not have a nuclear meltdown if you’re out of quinoa and use rice instead. Promise.

*Improvising is encouraged and if you want to use chicken in place of a grain or tofu or whatever, go right ahead.

*Once more with feeling: same goes with spices. Don’t like thyme? Out of rosemary? Use something else. I usually season by smell: take a sniff of what you’re cooking, then get a whiff of the spice you’re thinking of adding. If it’s a bad idea, you’ll probably know. If it’s not, start with a teeny tiny bit and taste to add more as you go. Warning: you cannot salt by smell.

*Put mushrooms into a paper or mesh bag ASAP and keep in as cool and dark a place as you have (like a cupboard or pantry rather than the fridge). They tend to mold really fast when they’re in plastic.

*Dried beans are ridiculously cheap (and don’t come in BPA lined cans), but they do take a while to soak and cook (in the range of 2-3 hours). Plan ahead if you’re using them. Easiest solution: submerge dry beans under a couple inches of water in the morning, then boil them until tender when you’re ready to use them. Generally, the smaller the bean, the quicker they’ll cook.

*Pretty much any odds and ends you have in the fridge can be made into soup, or heated and thrown over risotto (easy, but time consuming) or polenta (quick and easy). Or into frittata or onto a pizza (super easy if you use a tortilla for the crust).

*Dressing salads sensibly is a no-brainer if you have olive oil and a yummy vinegar on hand. If you put them into pump-style oil misters, you don’t even need steady hands to get the perfect amount and distribution. I always salt and pepper salads too. It’s amazing: those four ingredients make a delicious salad on their own, then you can relax and add whatever else sounds good to you.

*Speaking of yummy vinegar, make your own herbed vinegar. Get a bottle of red wine, rice or white balsamic vinegar (doesn’t need to be fancy) and add a couple of herbs (I like rosemary and oregano). Leave the bottle with the herbs in a cupboard for about two weeks then remove the herbs. Ta da! Then fill up your mister with your homemade delicious herbed vinegar.

 

Happy improvising!

 

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December 20, 2011

Consider the Stove

I came across this article on Grist this morning and must, must, must share it. Here’s the critical link that makes eating locally, organically, and sustainably possible: people have to cook. I just blew your mind, right? Probably not.

Anyway, the article is a conversation between Kurt Michael Friese and Tamar Adler, both food authors. Adler is getting a lot of press for her recently released book An Everlasting Meal: Cooking with Economy and Grace, which is on a long list of books I’d like to pick up. But back to the conversation. They’re talking about how Americans have been convinced not to cook for themselves, often by many of the same companies that make both processed foods and health claims.

Okay, that isn’t really news either, but these two touch on something else that I think is so important and largely overlooked. Home cooking is not and should not try to be celebrity chef-ery. If you’ve been fed (sorry) the idea that anything you cook should be worthy of a hi-def close up, you’re probably not overly eager to get in the kitchen and awkwardly chop an onion into uneven pieces. In fact, you’re most likely convinced that anything you cook will be a disaster in comparison to the latest culinary challenge.

Now we come to my very favorite quote of the whole piece. Friese makes a great comparison: “I worry about what people learn from TV because it’s too much like porn: People who are prettier and more talented than you doing things you’ll never do in places you’ll never do them. It stresses people out to think that they need to live up to that standard.” It doesn’t matter that all these shows fall under the “reality” category: they aren’t the reality of cooking to feed yourself. The point being: this is a conversation worth reading.

And a quick aside: both authors cite MFK Fisher, arguably the best food writer of the past century. I’m currently reading The Art of Eating, which was published in the 50s and is one of the most beautifully written books I’ve ever read. It’s a compilation of five of her previous books and I’m just about to the end of one called Consider the Oyster. I have never eaten an oyster, but now find myself wondering where I can find oyster stew and Oysters Rockefeller. More on this adventure and the rest of the book later.

A very successful and un-stressful last minute shopping week to all!

November 2, 2011

Serious Cold Weather Bread from My Own Kitchen

I grew up baking. My family photo albums include many pictures of a little-kid me up on a step stool at the counter, helping my mom bake cookies. In some of the photos, I’m wearing one of her aprons. I love potlucks because that means I have an excuse to bake a pie, a cake from scratch or fancy cookies. And my younger twin brothers are even better bakers than I am.

The baking focus was always dessert. Something we did not grow up making was bread. I attempted it a couple of times as a kid. Usually, I was too impatient to let anything rise, resulting in things like crunchy cinnamon rolls the size of a quarter. I’m a little intimidated by recipes involving yeast. But I resolved a of couple weeks ago to make pumpernickel bread. I really enjoy the bread, but possibly like the name even more. It’s just so homey and seasonal. So I picked up some bran flakes and rye flour(not things I keep at home) at the grocery store and was on my way.

Phew! A successful loaf!

Using whole grain flours in baking is infinitely more interesting than plain old all-purpose. They add all kinds of new flavors, density and fiber to whatever you’re making; you get character without having to resort to tons of sugar. Plus, whole grain flours haven’t been stripped of the grain’s bran and germ, meaning they have nutritional value and digest much more slowly than white flour. Kim Boyce’s Good to the Grain is hands down one of my favorite cookbooks; it made approaching new flours much less intimidating, and includes a lot of seriously delicious recipes.

The recipe, from Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything (another favorite), calls for making the dough in the food processor (so easy!), then letting it rise until it doubles in size (supposed to be two hours). After four hours, the dough hadn’t risen at all and didn’t smell anything like yeast. I’d used a couple of yeast packets that were nowhere near being expired, but I pronounced it dead anyway. Time to improvise. Bittman’s notes on active dry yeast said it could be added to bread pretty much anytime, so I dashed out to the grocery store for more.

When I got home, I whipped up a paste, adding liquid to the yeast and then enough flour to knead it in with the rest of the dough. Another few hours later, mercifully, the dough had risen. If it hadn’t, I wouldn’t have known what to do, wanting to neither bake a brick nor throw out the dough. A couple hours after that, two gorgeous, raisin-speckled (and puffy!) loaves of pumpernickel came out of the oven. It literally took all day (most of it leaving the dough to rise). But I had success. I made bread—not fluffy, fiberless bread, but substantial, eat-it-with-some-butter-for-breakfast hearty bread. It’s delicious. The first loaf didn’t even last long enough to get in the picture. “Oofs” – that’s “oops” with a mouth full of bread.

 

October 25, 2011

What am I Going to Put This In?

When I first moved into my own apartment, my kitchen was basically outfitted, but I often found myself reaching for things I didn’t own. In my mom’s kitchen, on the other hand, there was always the perfect dish for whatever you had. Loaf pans, odd sized or shaped containers and bowls abounded. There was more than one vegetable peeler (Thanksgiving involved something like 15 pounds of potatoes). Mom’s accumulated a multitude of odd dishes and pans, so you’re never at a loss.

Best. Potato masher. Ever.

Since my first place, I’ve managed to collect a lot of the little things I always needed. A few years ago, I swapped out my “ergonomic,” fancy-looking potato masher (who designed that stupid thing—it didn’t work at all!) for one I talked my mom into giving me. The one from Mom has a wooden handle, and a very basic metal mashing surface; I love it. I hope to never need a new one, ever.

I’ve also amassed a number of pans that are not your ordinary 9 by 13. Some of them came from Goodwill; I use them all. There is a set of two, purple Le Creuset, I bought new, and they are my preferred pans for roasted veggies and fruit crisps. There’s a really deep casserole I use for bread pudding and a couple of Corningware pans with lids that are great for Dutch baby (the aforementioned Dutch baby).

I set out for some of these pans knowing what I wanted; others I came across by chance and realized I had to have them. The prevailing trend, though, is that all of these are smaller than your typical mentioned-in-recipes pans. That, I think, is extremely important. They’re the right size if you’re not cooking for a family with children, or if you do mind eating the same thing four days in a row. A couple of them fit in the toaster oven. I could gush about our toaster oven here, but I think I’ll save that for its own post. Back to the pans: seriously, they’re small. And they’re perfect. Vegetables for one person fit easily in the small purple one.

Some of my favorite go-to pans.

Having the right tools in the kitchen makes everything easier. I once tried straining raspberry sauce through a coffee filter, and a tea strainer, because I didn’t have a regular strainer. That was a huge mistake; the next day I went out and bought myself a strainer, which I’ve used countless times since. Tools make a difference, but you don’t need a fully furnished gourmet kitchen to cook simple dinners. The best stuff is probably in your mother’s kitchen or at a thrift store. Then the next time you don’t want to get a whole big pan dirty, you’ll have the right one waiting.

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August 15, 2011

Good Things Happen When You’re Daring in the Kitchen

Okay, so maybe KOi fusion inspired me, but last week for dinner I combined a traditional western European breakfast food with non-traditional stir-fry and it worked. It worked well enough that I will write it down.

I knew I was taking a risk smashing them together, but it paid off in that now I have one more totally unique dinner in my repertoire. Even better: like the best recipes I know, it’s a “whatever you have will work” thing. I used half a leftover zucchini, yellow squash, a small head of cauliflower and a bunch of green beans for the stir-fry. Add a little sunflower oil, garlic and a smidge (seriously, not more than about a tablespoon, and the pan was full o’ veggies) of soy sauce and served it in a Dutch baby.

Now about Dutch baby (Dutch…baby?). I once asked my mom if in Holland, they just call it a baby, which seemed like it could get awkward. You might know it as a German pancake. My personal theory is that Dutch came from a mistranslation of Deutche. This is all beside the point.

Basically, this Dutch/German/baby/pancake is a ratio of 1 egg to ¼ cup milk and ¼ cup flour blended together and poured in a flat Corningware pan with some melted butter in the bottom. I suppose you could make it in a standard square Pyrex, but the little blue flower design of Corningware is etched onto my image of the thing. It just works better than anything else. Chez moi and my hubby, I double the above ratio (using half whole wheat flour) and use a 6 inch square Corningware I picked up at Goodwill for a whopping $3.99.

Once the Dutch baby was in the oven; 425 for about 20 minutes; I whipped up my seasonal stir-fry and away we went. My mom used to say, “Dutch baby waits for no man,” so when it was for dinner, we didn’t dawdle getting to the table. She said that because after it’s out of the oven, you had better eat it quick because it cools and deflates from its puffy, fluffy glory. As soon as it’s out of the oven, slice it like a pie and fill it with stir-fry.

I’ll admit that until we sat down and ate, I had no idea if this was going to be a colossal swing and a miss. Even as I was putting it on the table, I wondered what I was thinking. But this out-there crazy combo worked.  Aside from a small container of veggies, there were no leftovers, and we started with a lot of vegetables. I take this as further proof that being daring and unafraid, while no guarantee of success, occasionally hands you a gem. Score one for being super adventurous.

August 9, 2011

But Do I Need an Apron?

I’ve spent months bouncing around ideas for the start of the blog for this website. Stories of success, or failure, from my own kitchen; manifestos on the importance of local produce or well-raised meat; criticisms of subsidies or this or that diet and food science. Then a while back, I bumped into Mark Bittman’s column on the most fundamental ritual of any human culture: cooking. Of course!

Cooking is, after all, the backbone of Everyday Eats. We’ll tell you what to do and deliver what you need, but you’re the cook. Bittman’s point is that cooking for yourself is the ultimate way to take back control over what you eat. And he’s right (I’ll talk more about him often). When we let others manufacture and prepare what we consume, we hand over the keys to our bodies and our health.

By preparing our own food, we eliminate unnecessary fats, sugars, preservatives, additives and colors. And we need not sacrifice flavor—actual flavor, not salt, fat and sugar flavor. We also connect with the food we prepare, encountering the textures, colors and smells that occur naturally. It is sometimes the most satisfying accomplishment of the day to create and enjoy a well-made meal.

So get in the kitchen and cook! Dust off your spatulas and throw caution to the wind. Everyday Eats is here to help you along, keeping it simple, quick and delicious. Make vegetables and whole grains the co-stars of your meals and take back this essential and intimate part of your life. As for an apron, I love mine and relish putting it on to tackle new projects in the kitchen or for baking. But everyday cooking doesn’t require one, so I’ll leave it up to you.

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